Day 14 (July 19, 2019): Prizren, Kosovo

Before I get into today, I'd like to provide some brief words on Kosovo itself.  Kosovo is Europe’s newest country. The War between the Serbians and the Kosovo Liberation Army (which represented the ethnic Albanian majority in Kosovo) was in 1998-1999.  Hundreds of thousands of people were displaced during the conflict.  Canada took in over 2500 refugees from Kosovo in 1999.  Over 13,000 people were killed during the War.  So, what caused the War?  That's a very complicated question requiring an understanding of the country's history going back to the 1800s.  But in short, the Serb minority (about 10%) started to really tighten the thumb-screws on the Albanian majority (about 85%) and it exploded.  The Albanians said, 'no more!'

Kosovo declared independence from Serbia in 2008, and while it has been diplomatically recognized by 160 countries, there are still many nations that do not accept Kosovan independence, including Serbia, Russian and China. The country has been the focus of massive aid from the international community, particularly the EU and NATO, who effectively run Kosovo politically and keep peace.

It’s safe to travel here now, and indeed is one of the last corners of Europe that remains off the beaten track for travelers.

We decided to see Kosovo's second-largest city today:  Prizren.  It was a two-hour bus ride each direction, but the sights of Prizren's Old Town did not disappoint!

That's the namazgah - a mosque without a roof - in Prizren.  Built in 1455, a namazgah is a space for large groups to perform namaz (Islamic worship or prayer) together.


Clock tower in Prizren.  Our guide at the ethnocultural museum in Pristina explained something very simple but important to us yesterday:  the basic buildings in a Muslim town were the mosque (for prayer), the hammam (public bath), the bazaar (for selling) and the clock tower (to keep everyone on time for prayer).


Orthodox Church of the Holy Virgin of Ljevis in Prizren is a 14th century Serbian church that was used as a mosque until 1911.  It was fully renovated in the 1950s, but was mostly destroyed by the Albanians in 1999, during the war.  The church was given back tot he local Serbian community after the war.  But to protect it from again being sacked, it is surrounded by razor wire.


That razor wire is proof of how fragile the relations continue to be between Kosovars and Serbs in the post-war era.


Kukli Beg Mosque.  From Prizren Fortress (see below), I quickly counted at least 15 mosques just in Old Town!  So space doesn't permit showing them all here.


Turkish bath (hammam) of Gzai Mehmet Pasha in Prizren, built in 1573.


Midday pancakes, Nutella, berries and ice cream!


The view of the Prizren Bistrica, the river flowing through Prizren.  See what looks like a flat plain in the middle of the pic?  That is the Prizren Fortress.  In 30-degree heat, we decided to climb up there.  Photos below!


The Stone Bridge was built in the 16th century. In 1979 the Bridge was destroyed due to floods, and was rebuilt in 1982.


Pam on the Stone Bridge, with the Sinan Pasha Mosque in background.


The Sinan Posha Mosque in Prizren, built in 1615.  The covered area in foreground is where the men do their ablutions (washing) before entering the Mosque.


The view of Prizren's Old Town from Prizren Fortress.



St. Savior Church, on the way up to the Prizren Fortress.


Kosovo is more mountainous than expected!  The mountain view from the Prizren Fortress.


A vineyard between Pristina and Prizren.


BBQ corn-on-the-cob is a popular snack food here.


Zahir Pajaziti was a commander of the Kosovo Liberation Army. He was the first Commander of the Kosovo Liberations Army and died at age 35.  He was made a "Hero of Kosovo" in 2008, and his statue is located along Pristina's pedestrian street, where we ate dinner tonight.